Invert Syrup, Feminist Snap: Anzac Biscuits and Feminist Resistance to Imperial Logics

Main Article Content

Lindsay Kelley

Abstract

Baked for Anzac Day in April but eaten all year, Anzac biscuits memorialize the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) participation in the Gallipoli Campaign during World War I. The chemical and culinary capacities of one of the biscuit’s key ingredients, golden syrup, offer strategies for figuring snaps, breaks, and refusals. Golden syrup catalyzes a feminist digestion of a food often perceived as culturally conservative or nationalistic. Sara Ahmed describes “feminist snap” as a moment of fury that confronts and changes history. Snap can additionally refer to crispy batter-based desserts that often call for golden syrup. Classified as an “invert syrup,” golden syrup was formulated from sugar refining waste products that were fed to pigs before being adapted for human consumption. “Invert” refers to the assessment of syrups using a beam of light, which inverts its angle of rotation as fructose and glucose separate. Reading the chemistry of inverting sugar alongside the feminist-led “anti-Anzac” day movement of the 1980s, this paper proposes that edible everyday militarisms might be snapped, inverted, spun, and reshaped. Anzac biscuits bring domestic everyday militarisms into Australian and Aotearoa New Zealand kitchens.

Article Details

Section
The Domestication of War

References

Ahmed, Sara. 2017. Living a Feminist Life. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.

Australian Department of Veterans’ Affairs. 2020. “Protecting the Word ‘Anzac.’” August 20, 2020. https://www.dva.gov.au/recognition/events-and-reminders-all-who-served/protecting-word-anzac.

Australian Government Department of Defence. 2021. “Operations.” https://www1.defence.gov.au/operations#current-operations.

Bartlett, Alison. 2011. “Feminist Protest and Maternity at Pine Gap Women’s Peace Camp, Australia 1983.” Women’s Studies International Forum 34 (1): 31–38. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wsif.2010.10.002.

Burgmann, Meredith. 2014. “The Women Against Rape in War Collective’s Protests against ANZAC Day in Sydney, 1983 and 1984.” Cosmopolitan Civil Societies Journal 6 (3): 116–22. https://doi.org/10.5130/ccs.v6i3.4222.

Cifor, Marika, Patricia Garcia, T.L. Cowan, Jasmine Rault, Tonia Sutherland, Anita Say Chan, Jennifer Rode, Anna Lauren Hoffman, Niloufar Salehi, and Lisa Nakamura. 2019. Feminist Data Manifest-No. https://www.manifestno.com/.

Cobley, Joanna. 2016. “Should We Safeguard ‘the Idea of the Anzac Biscuit Recipe’?” Women’s Studies Journal 30, no. 1 (July): 62–70.

Cohler, Deborah. 2017. “Introduction: Homefront Frontlines and Transnational Geometries of Empire and Resistance.” Feminist Formations 29 (1): vii–xvii. https://muse.jhu.edu/pub/1/article/658640.

Crotty, Martin. 2008. “Australian Troops Land at Gallipoli: Trial, Trauma, and the ‘Birth of the Nation.’” In Turning Points in Australian History, edited by Martin Crotty and David Roberts, 100-114. Sydney: UNSW Press.

Cuomo, Chris. 1996. “War Is Not Just an Event: Reflections on the Significance of Everyday Violence.” Hypatia 11 (4): 30–45. https://www.jstor.org/stable/3810390.

Curthoys, Ann. 2001. “National Narratives, War Commemoration and Racial Exclusion in a Settler Society: The Australian Case.” In The Politics of War Memory and Commemoration, edited by T.G. Ashplant, Graham Dawson, and Michael Roper, 128-144. London: Taylor & Francis.

Dowse, Sara, and Patricia Giles. 1996. “Women in a Warrior Society.” In Sisterhood Is Global: The International Women’s Movement Anthology, edited by Robin Morgan, 63–68. New York: Feminist Press.

Elder, Catriona. 2005. “‘I Spit on Your Stone’: National Identity, Women Against Rape and the Cult of Anzac in Australia.” In Women, Activism and Social Change, edited by Maja Mikula, 71–81. London: Routledge.

Elder, Catriona. 2007. Being Australian: Narratives of National Identity. Crows Nest, AU: Allen & Unwin.

Gullace, Nicoletta. 1997. “Sexual Violence and Family Honor: British Propaganda and International Law during the First World War.” The American Historical Review 102 (3): 714–47. https://doi.org/10.2307/2171507.

Hamilton, Jennifer. 2019. “The Future of Housework: The Similarities and Differences Between Making Kin and Making Babies.” Australian Feminist Studies 34 (102): 468–89. https://doi.org/10.1080/08164649.2019.1702874.

hooks, bell. 2015. Yearning: Race, Gender, and Cultural Politics. New York: Routledge.

Howe, Adrian. 1995. “Anzac Mythology and the Feminist Challenge.” In Gender and War: Australians at War in the Twentieth Century, edited by Marilyn Lake and Joy Damousi, 302–10. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.

Hunter, Wendy. n.d. “Anzac Wafers.” BigOven. Accessed May 20, 2021. https://www.bigoven.com/recipe/anzac-wafers/863996.

Inglis, Ken. 1999. Observing Australia: 1959–1999. Melbourne: Melbourne University Press.

Ingold, Tim, and Elizabeth Hallam. 2007. “Creativity and Cultural Improvisation: An Introduction.” In Creativity and Cultural Improvisation, edited by Elizabeth Hallam and Tim Ingold, 1–24. London: Routledge.

Kelley, Lindsay. 2016. Bioart Kitchen: Art, Feminism and Technoscience. London: I.B. Tauris.

Kelley, Lindsay. 2022a. “Biscuit Production and Consumption as War Re-enactment.” Continuum: Journal of Media & Cultural Studies. https://doi.org/10.1080/10304312.2022.2106357.

Kelley, Lindsay. 2022b. “Everyday Militarisms in the Kitchen: Baking Strange with Anzac Biscuits.” In Food in Memory and Imagination: Space, Place and, Taste, edited by Beth Forrest and Greg de St. Maurice, 239–52. London: Bloomsbury.

Lake, Marilyn, Henry Reynolds, Mark McKenna, and Joy Damousi. 2010. What’s Wrong with Anzac?: The Militarisation of Australian History. Sydney: University of NSW Press.

Landecker, Hannah. 2013. “Postindustrial Metabolism: Fat Knowledge.” Public Culture 25 (3): 495–522. https://doi.org/10.1215/08992363-2144625.

Leavy, Patricia. 2015. Method Meets Art: Arts-Based Research Practice. 2nd ed. New York: Guilford.

Loveless, Natalie. 2019. How to Make Art at the End of the World: A Manifesto for Research-Creation. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.

Manatū Taonga Ministry for Culture and Heritage. 2020. “Use of the Word ‘Anzac’ Guidelines.” February 21, 2020. https://mch.govt.nz/nz-identity-heritage/anzac-day/anzac-guidelines.

Marx de Salcedo, Anastacia. 2015. Combat-Ready Kitchen: How the U.S Military Shapes the Way You Eat. New York: Penguin.

Mason, Laura. 2015. “Golden Syrup.” In The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, edited by Darra Goldstein. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

New Zealand History. 2021. “Anzac Day: Page 7 – Modern Anzac Day.” New Zealand History, Nga Korero Ipurangi o Aotearoa. April 8, 2021. https://nzhistory.govt.nz/war/modern-anzac-day.

OED Online. 2021. S.v. “snap, (n.)” Accessed September, 2021.

Reynolds, Allison. 2018. Anzac Biscuits: The Power and Spirit of an Everyday Icon. Mile End, South Australia: Wakefield Press.

Schott, Robin. 1996. “Gender and ‘Postmodern’ War.” Hypatia 11 (4): 19–29. https://www.jstor.org/stable/3810389.

Smith, Linda Tuhiwai. 2012. Decolonizing Methodologies: Research and Indigenous Peoples. 2nd ed. London: Zed Books.

Speck, Caroline. 1996. “Women’s War Memorials and Citizenship.” Australian Feminist Studies 11 (23): 129–45. https://doi.org/10.1080/08164649.1996.9994810.

Supski, Sian. 2006. “Anzac Biscuits — A Culinary Memorial.” Journal of Australian Studies 30 (87): 51–59. https://doi.org/10.1080/14443050609388050.

Twomey, Christina. 2013. “Trauma and the Reinvigoration of Anzac: An Argument.” History Australia 10 (3): 85–108. https://doi.org/10.1080/14490854.2013.11668482.

Verhoeven, Deb. 2021. Anti-Anzac Biscuits and Film Fatale Interview by Lindsay Kelley.

Verhoeven, Deb, and Sandra Sdrauling. 1987. “Film Fatale Correspondence.” Deb Verhoeven personal archive.

Young, Iris Marion. 1997. Intersecting Voices: Dilemmas of Gender, Political Philosophy, and Policy. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.